The art of slow travel is something I’ve always loved to do, if not perfect. I despised the rush and constantly flitting from one place to another, be it, destination or attraction. Cambodia was the ideal country to start. Solo travelling to Cambodia was by far one of the most memorable and incredible things I’ve done. With the nerves and butterflies buzzing inside me, I hopped on a flight to Phnom Penh via Bangkok from Colombo for a solo remote-working trip to East Asia. Is Phnom Penh worth visiting? Like any city, Phnom Penh is busy and beautiful and has a lot to offer – if you’re willing to look.
From travel blogs and TikToks, the common sentiment was to spend just a day or two in Phnom Penh, and while I stayed for 3 nights, I wish I stayed longer.
S-21 Prison and Killing Fields
Prepare for an emotionally draining experience. The S-21 Prison functioned as an interrogation camp during the Khmer Rouge regime. A brutal, corrupt and just-pure insane bunch of people led by the infamous Pol Pot, who controlled Cambodia between 1975 and 1979. The eeriest bit about these places, was that this is recent history – survivors sit within the premises, some in wheelchairs, some with emptiness in their eyes, offering first-hand experiences of this brutal time.
S-21 Prison
The S-21 Prison was a school converted into a torture building. Prisoners were locked in tiny rooms, restrained by iron bars by their feet. There were individual prison cells about 3 feet wide and larger rooms which held about 50 prisoners. They were prohibited from talking and moving. The floors in some of these rooms, where they were “interrogated” and tortured, are still stained so deeply with blood that it’s visible. And the worst part? They weren’t criminals. They were average citizens from Phnom Penh, many of whom worked in the government, or as teachers, lawyers, or anyone educated.
The Killing Fields
Also known as the Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre, this area was once an orchard, but later turned into a mass grave site. Approximately 17,000 people, most of whom came from the S-21 prison, were murdered here. Mass graves and trees used for smashing babies’ heads are the main things to see here. The audio guide is heartbreaking to listen to.
The monsoon rains still wash away layers of soil, revealing pieces of cloth or bone!
There’s so much to say but it’s just so disheartening to write about it. I usually enjoy blogging about my travels as I get to experience it twice – but this is one thing I can’t bring myself to feel again, not so soon. But stay tuned, I may write up a post on this soon, but if you have no patience, I’m sure you can find plenty of sources online about the history of Cambodia during the Vietnam War and how that fueled the Khmer Rouge and the atrocities committed on the Khmer people. Search for: S21 Prison, Killing Fields, The Killing Tree, Pol Pot, Khmer Rouge.
Why visit it? Because the Khmer people want the world to know what they went through, and they want to remind their people that history will never be repeated.
Is this the only reason to visit Phnom Penh? No, I’m not a sadist. I wouldn’t recommend spending longer here simply to stare at a killing field – that’s absurd. But why is Phnom Phen worth visiting? Because it’s the capital city – and like all cities – it’s local, authentic, and has a lot to offer you.
Where to stay in Phnom Penh?
Social hostels and hotels are a great place to meet people minus the partying and loud music. For a solo remote-traveller who also needed privacy and peace and quiet to work during the day, I booked a private room at Onederz Phnom Penh. After my first solo co-working trip in Sri Lanka, I learned that bunk beds are not my forte. I found the perfect mix of hostel and hotel at Onederz. They have organised group tours, an open lounge/reception, a rooftop pool and a combination of private rooms and the usual hostel rooms.
Other Things to Do in Phnom Penh
Stroll along the Sisowath Riverside Park and the promenade that runs along the Tonle Sap River and eventually merges with the famous Mekong River. As you walk along, you’ll pass the Wat Ounalom Monastery and the massive Royal Palace complex. If you have time, do go in. I admired the Royal Palace from the street, as I was making my way to Tube Coffee Riverside to read The Mystery of the Boy at S-21. Tube Coffee Riverside is a popular cafe for locals and gets busy during the morning. The cafe overlooks the stunning Mekong River too! There’s a bustling street market around Onederz that serves a gallery of sights, sounds and smells – would recommend exploring this during the daytime.
How long to stay in Phnom Penh?
For slow travellers, I recommend at least 5 days. But if you’re on a tight timeline, 2 or 3 days is good enough too. It all depends on how much you want to or can pack in a day. I explored during the weekends and morning hours, as my afternoon and evenings were with work. Besides, the art of slow travel was something I seem to quite enjoy.
Getting around Phnom Penh
From the Phnom Penh airport, get a Grab. The app works around the city and there’s plenty of cars and tuk tuks around. If you’re in the mood to haggle, the local tuk tuks are a good option too. Download the local equivalent – PassApp if you have a local number. I did walk quite a bit along the river promenade as my accommodation was quite central. One draw was that it was on the red light district side, so tons of working women and white-haired men walking about. But the large number of walkable restaurants and bars made up for this.
Money in Phnom Penh
This was the most confusing part of my entire trip! Cambodia functions on the Cambodian Riel and USD. Some restaurants, cafes, stores, and even cabs charge you in USD. While they have the conversation rate at the top of their head – I, a tourist with bad maths, had the most confusing experience. When you pay in USD, you’d often get a mix of USD and Riel back as change. I eventually stopped counting my change and assumed everyone was honest and gave me back the right change haha.
What to eat in Cambodia
Now, I’ve heard of Fish Amok and was instantly intrigued. It reminded me of my favourite Seafood Mok Mai dish from Thailand. Fish Amok was the first thing I had after I landed, and by god, I loved it. It quickly became my favourite go-to as I travelled around! I did also try the Khmer curry with chicken, which was flavourful, aromatic and as good. Angkor beer was a refreshing and cold companion for the hot, humid days in Cambodia. But more on Cambodian food in my next blog post as I explore the stunning city of Siem Reap. Stay tuned!
Yours truly,
Imperfect Traveller