As mentioned in my previous blog on Phnom Penh, I was adamant about perfecting the art of slow travel and Siem Reap proved to be the perfect place to master it. Solo travelling in Siem Reap proved to be one of the most memorable trips I’ve been on so far – especially solo.
How long to spend in Siem Reap?
Stay in Siem Reap for as long as you possibly can. While it’s tempting to hit and quit the city in 2-3 days- take some time to really absorb this country! I stayed for almost a week, which was very strange to the locals. But this also meant I found a favourite restaurant, the staff at my hotel knew my name and eventually learnt about my country and its language so they could greet me in the morning.
Where to stay in Siem Reap
My hotel was booked weeks before the trip. While Onederz had a sister property in Siem Reap, I didn’t want to take the chance of staying there on the off chance that I didn’t like it at Phnom Penh (but I did). I stayed at People by the Community, a community-run hotel managed by the nicest locals. The rooms were spacious and comfortable, the lobby was stunning and opened to the lounge, restaurant and pool. The rooftop pool was relaxing with good views of the city. People by the Community was closer to the Angkor Wat Temple complex than the main town. The quiet spaces gave me plenty of quiet space to get my work done – whether at the restaurant, by the pool or in my cosy room.
Angkor Wat Temple Complex
The city of Angkor stretches over 400km²! It’s home to the stunning remnants of temples including Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom, Bayon Temple and Ta Prohm. Angkor was an ancient city and the capital of a powerful empire. Buy your tickets for Angkor Wat online to make your life easier.
Angkor Wat was first a Hindu temple dedicated to the god Vishnu. It’s the most prominent temple within the Angkor complex. However, its religious purpose evolved over time. In the late 12th century, under the reign of King Jayavarman VII, it was transformed into a Buddhist temple.
Pretty impressive, right? The whole thing was built in less than 40 years! Meanwhile, Europeans were still busy building their cathedrals, and they took centuries to finish.
What to wear
When visiting Angkor temple complex, keep in mind that these are revered places of worship. Wear comfortable clothes that cover your knees and shoulders before entering these holy, historic sites. Good walking shoes are a must. My Sri Lankan sarong from Barefoot was super comfortable, airy and modest enough to walk into any temple without issues. Humidity levels coupled with the harsh sun can get to you after the first few hours of exploring these temples. Carry your reusable water and try to get out before noon. I started at 5 am to catch the sunrise at Angkor Wat and ended by 11:30 am. At which point I just wanted a beer and a dip in the pool to cool my entire system!
Village experience with Peng
This was easily the highlight of my Cambodia trip. A new Colombian friend recommended the ‘Village experience with Peng‘, a local tour and cooking experience hosted by the lovely Peng and his wife. Their home is in a countryside village, and they offer a truly immersive experience.
We started by visiting the local market to buy ingredients for lunch. Peng’s wife was incredibly kind, letting me choose whatever I wanted to try. I even ended up sampling a local delicacy – rat!
After the market, Peng took me on a long walk through the village, sharing stories about life in Cambodia, politics, and the Khmer Rouge. We visited goose and pig farms, mushroom farms and rice fields. Back at their home, we prepared a delicious ginger chicken satay and salad, grilled fish and grilled rat – accompanied by a delicious platter of herbs, greens and some edible flowers! It was the perfect Cambodian meal.
I felt so welcomed by Peng, his wife, and their three kids. They made me feel like part of their family, and I can’t wait to return.
Pub Street in Siem Reap
One piece of advice – skip it. Unless you’re into the different types of loud music blaring from either side of a small street, bright light, plenty of “please come in” and noise. Otherwise, for something a bit more local, walk towards the end of the street towards the Siem Reap River, cross the bridge and walk until you find a stretch of local bars. You can identify them by very low tables and chairs – almost like the kind kids use, Khmer music and plenty of locals around.
Hero rats of Cambodia
The APOPO Foundation is a special place in Cambodia as it houses the smallest heroes of Cambodia – giant African rats that are trained to sniff you explosives like landmines. At the APOPO centre, our guide took us through a brief history and overview of the foundation, the rats and all the incredible work they’ve done! They’ve saved numerous lives in the cities and villages of Cambodia. The rats work for about 3 hours of the day and sleep and eat for the rest of the day. Towards the end of the briefing, we even got to meet one – Glen. Glen demonstrated his stellar skills and detecting a landmine and got rewarded with a banana for his incredible job! We even got to hold him. These hero rates are life savers.
Can’t wait to visit you again Cambodia.
Yours truly,
Imperfect Traveller